Laurie in Poland

today at the POW camp and etc.

Today was fabulous, and I have the pictures to prove it (and will upload them early next week).

It started when Jupi and his friend picked me up at 11am. Our first stop (not a stop, really, but a drive by) was a town called Bialogard. He told me that the Soviets only moved out of this town in 1995, after (as Jupi tells it) Lech Walesa traveled to Moscow and got Yeltsin drunk on vodka and made him sign an agreement. Up til this time, there had been a gigantic Soviet military installation there.

Our next stop was to the train station in Podborsko, which during the war, because it was in Germany, was called Kiefheide. The significance of this station is that it was where the POWs who were going to Stalag Luft IV were dropped off. They walked the last 3 miles or so to the camp. THe station, according to vets that have visited it, hasn't changed at all in 60 years. It does like pretty "vintage" if you know what I mean. Jupi's friend, Zigmund, who is a sculptor, has a piece there.

Finally, we went to the site of the camp. Zigmund made a large sculpture there, which was unveiled in the early 90s, which much pomp and circumstance, attended by Polish and American officials and American vets. There were about 10000 POWs in the camp, 9500 of them Americans.

The camp is now the site of a young forest. It's very peaceful, quiet, and the only sound is that of birds singing. We walked a short distance into the woods to see some building foundations and a fire pool. When the camp was running, it was divided into four quadrants, but apparently this is the only fire pool that still exists. Jupi is trying to have the camp designated as a military cemetary (it is documented that some Americans were buried there). If this can be done, government money will be allotted to it and more memorials and other work could be done there.

It was on the way back from the camp that Jupi's friend, Yamchak, told me he was a physics teacher. I told him that I am in awe of all my freshmen advisees at Tufts who want to take physics and I believe they are smarter than average people. He said that physics teachers wives are usually not in agreement with this statement. It was a very funny moment.

We stopped for a drink in Tychowo, the local town that is closest (but not very close) to the camp site. The mayor of Tychowo spoke at the dedication of the sculptures at the camp, and there have been local exhibits about life at the camp. Tychowo is the sleepiest Polish town I've visited so far, and quite charming. Lots of small gardens exploding with flowers.

Back in Koszalin, we made one more stop at the local cemetary, which was started by the Soviets. Jupi told a story about a giant sculpture there. It depicts a Soviet officer protecting a small Polish boy. It had originally been in the Koszalin town square. After the Soviets left, people used to refer to the soldier as a kidnapper, rather than a protector. The locals wanted either to tear down the monument or move it. It was decided to move it to the cemetary, where it does have a place of honor, if you will, at the entry. The main reason to go to the cemetery was to see another of Zigmund's sculptures, to Polish martyrs in all wars. There is a special plaque commemorating the POWs at Luft IV. It's a very impressive sculpture.

At this point, Yamchuk dropped us at Jupi's house and took his leave. I gave him some American money for gas, and he joked about keeping it as a souvenir. I had been debating all morning about whether to give him Polish or American money. I thought the tour was over, and I guess it was, but now the Polish hospitality kicked into overdrive. I met Jupi's lovely wife and son, we rested for a few minutes and then took a short walk to Zigmund's house, who is a character. A documentary should really made about this guy. I commented that his house looks unusually old and he said it is: it's an amalgam of all kinds of old found materials. A door is from a 19th century building, a window from an old farmhouse, etc. In every corner is something amazing to look at, with an equally amazing story. He has a collection of material from Luft IV and other WW2 sites. He showed us a few of the several portfolios of this work that he's done over the years and presented me with two drawings that I was honored and touched to receive.

Back at Jupi's house, which is a beauty from this century (large, ceramic tile roof, lovely side and back garden, ivy growing up the brick walls), I watched a 30 minute movie that he made (he used to be a TV producer) about the unveiling of Zigmund's sculptures at Luft IV, complete with interviews with some of the vets that attended. And then there was lunch! We started with a warm beet soup that Jupi's wife stressed was made with young beet roots that she believes are sweeter than average. I've NEVER been a fan of beets of any kind, but this soup was fabulous. I thought that was it, but no: we then had a delicious stew, potatos, salad, and of course, beer. It was at this point (6pm) that I was ready to die and go to heaven but instead it was time to leave. I had no idea I was going to be entertained and educated by this delightful family all day!

I'm sure I've left something out, so I'll think more about the day and probably post more later, and will surely post pictures. Now, I admit, since I am in a beach town, I need some ice cream!

posted by Laurie Sabol @ 6/25/2005 07:02:00 PM